To judge an arena on a tour, check three things in this order: the base under the footing, how the arena drains, and the footing itself. Footing can be topped off, amended, or replaced in a season. A failed base or poor drainage usually means rebuilding the arena, which is a much larger project. Bring a few simple tools, ask permission to dig small test holes, and ask the seller for the arena's history.
What you are looking at: three layers
A University of Kentucky Extension publication on arena footing describes a riding arena as three layers:
- Top (footing): the loose riding surface, often 2 to 6 inches thick depending on use.
- Base: a solid, compacted layer, usually 6 to 8 inches thick depending on use.
- Sub-base: the existing soil or added rock below, graded for drainage.
Penn State Extension stresses which layer matters most:
"it has been proven that a successful arena surface is no better than the underlying foundation of base and sub-base it rests upon"
Penn State Extension, Riding Arena Footing Material Selection and Management
Penn State also notes that loose footing needs to knit to the base so it does not slide across the hard layer as horses work. Footing that shifts in sheets, or a base you can see in bare patches, is a warning sign.
What to bring
- A narrow trowel or small spade
- A tape measure or ruler
- A 4-foot level or a phone level app
- A clear jar with a lid
- Your phone for photos and notes
Six tests to run on a tour
1. Measure depth in at least ten spots
Check the track along the rail, the center, each corner, in front of the gate, along the diagonals, and anywhere jumps or barrels are set. Push the trowel straight down until it hits the hard base and measure.
Penn State recommends starting a sand arena with about 2 inches of footing and adding a half inch at a time as needed. It also warns:
"With its deep, loose traction, sand deeper than 6 inches is stressful to horse tendons."
Penn State Extension, Riding Arena Footing Material Selection and Management
Uneven depth is common and usually fixable by dragging and redistributing. Pay attention to where footing is thinnest. Penn State says the rail takes the most abuse and that footing can be thrown out of that path until horses are working on the base. It adds that hooves hitting the base "will cause permanent ruts in the base that are expensive to repair." Penn State also notes that the spot where instructors stand is among the most compacted in an arena, so check there too.
2. Find the base and judge it
In each test hole, feel for a firm, even layer under the footing. Good signs: the trowel stops on a hard surface at a similar depth across the arena, and the footing lifts away cleanly. Warning signs: soft or muddy spots under the footing, base stone mixed up into the riding surface, or clay smeared through the sand. Penn State recommends compactable base materials with particles usually no larger than a quarter inch, since larger pieces can bruise a hoof. Stones working up to the surface mean the base is breaking down.
3. Read the drainage
Visit within a day of a good rain if you can. The University of Kentucky publication suggests outdoor arenas be built with a crown of 1 to 2 percent or on a raised, well-drained surface. Use your level to check whether the arena sheds water toward the edges, then look for:
- Puddles or dark, wet patches in the same spots
- Footing washed to one end or one side
- Ruts and soft spots at the gate
- A berm of footing along the fence that traps water. Penn State notes that footing piled at the fence line of an outdoor arena can slow drainage.
- Where water goes after it leaves the arena, and whether uphill runoff is diverted around it
Soil type matters here. NC State Extension notes that much of the subsoil in the Piedmont and mountain regions is high in clay and that clay soils move water slowly and can stay wet for long periods. An arena built on clay without a proper base and drainage plan will show it after every storm.
4. Check for dust
Kick the surface and watch what hangs in the air. Then scoop a sample into your jar, add water, shake, and let it settle. A thick layer of silt and clay on top of the sand is a rough sign of too many fines. It is not a lab test. Penn State says that if more than 5 percent of the material passes a number 200 sieve, footing tends to be too dusty, and that footing with a high percentage of fines should be partly or wholly replaced. Penn State notes that most industrial mines and sand producers can provide a sieve analysis if you need a firm answer.
Ask how the arena is watered. Penn State recommends keeping footing evenly moist to a 3-inch depth and having a frost-proof hydrant near the arena. An irrigation system or a water tank and sprayer that convey with the property are worth noting.
5. Identify the footing material
| Material | Strengths | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Washed, angular sand | Drains well; Penn State says hard quartz sand can last up to 10 years | Dries fast and needs regular watering |
| Stonedust | Stable when kept damp | Penn State says it gets almost as hard as concrete when dry and is extremely dusty unless kept moist |
| Sand with wood product | Adds cushion and holds moisture | Wood breaks down; Penn State expects to add more every couple of years |
| Sand with rubber | Adds cushion, reduces sand wear | Rubber floats and separates after heavy rain |
| Sand with fiber | Adds stability | University of Kentucky notes a simple chain harrow is not adequate to keep it mixed |
| Topsoil or native dirt | Inexpensive | Penn State does not recommend it: it compacts, gets dusty, and clay turns slick when wet |
6. Watch a horse work, if you can
Ask whether you can watch the seller or a trainer ride. Look for even hoofprints across the arena, slipping in the corners, and deep or hard spots where the horse changes rhythm.
Questions to ask the seller
- When was the arena built, and by whom?
- What is the base made of, and how thick is it?
- What footing is on top, and when was it last topped off or replaced?
- Has any additive, fiber, rubber, wax, or salt been added?
- How often is it dragged, and with what equipment? Does the equipment convey?
- How is it watered?
- Have there been drainage repairs, and do you have invoices or a contractor's name?
Penn State recommends dragging at least once a week even for lightly used arenas, and once or more daily for arenas in heavy use. A long gap in maintenance shows up as ruts at the rail and compacted spots.
Plan for the arena's life span
Even good footing wears out:
"Every 5 to 10 years, plan on a complete footing replacement or at least a major overhaul."
Penn State Extension, Riding Arena Footing Material Selection and Management
Penn State adds that most arena surfaces need some amendment at least every couple of years. Ask when the current footing went in so you can estimate where it is in that cycle.
Worked example. Penn State's sand and sawdust recipe calls for 8 tons of sand per 1,000 square feet at 2 inches deep and 12 tons at 3 inches. For a 100 by 200 foot arena (20,000 square feet), that is about 160 tons of sand at 2 inches or 240 tons at 3 inches. A small 20 by 40 meter dressage arena (about 8,600 square feet) needs roughly 69 tons at 2 inches. Multiply by a delivered price per ton from a local quarry, then add labor, removal of old footing, and any base repair. That gives you a number to compare against the asking price before you make an offer.
The FEI, the international governing body for horse sport, framed the stakes when it published its Equine Surfaces White Paper. Its announcement quoted FEI Veterinary Committee chair John McEwen, who said research now helps the sport understand
"how the right surfaces, with the necessary preparation and ongoing maintenance, can extend the working lives of sport horses and produce the best performances."
Red flags versus fixable issues
| What you find | What it usually means | Likely fix |
|---|---|---|
| Uneven depth, firm base | Missed maintenance | Drag, regrade, top off |
| Dust cloud when dry | Too many fines, too little water | Water, additive, or new footing |
| Puddles in the same spots | Low spots in the base or no crown | Base repair or regrade |
| Base stone or clay in the footing | Base breaking down | Strip and rebuild the base |
| Ruts at the rail and gate | Footing thrown off the track | Redistribute footing; repair ruts in base |
| Footing washed to one end | Slope and runoff problems | Regrade and divert water |
For dressage buyers, our guide to dressage properties in North Carolina covers arena size and slope rules. Add the arena to your full horse property inspection checklist, and if you are a seller deciding whether to fix an arena first, see horse farm upgrades that pay off. You can also browse current horse property for sale. Questions about a specific arena? Contact us.
Sources
- Penn State Extension, Riding Arena Footing Material Selection and Management
- University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension, Riding Arena Footing: Materials and Characteristics (ID-265)
- NC State Extension, Modifying Soil for Plant Growth Around Your Home
- FEI, World's Most Extensive Equine Surfaces Study Published
